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Interview with Cheyne Horan...
Sponsors: Maxim Wetsuits, Plunging Surf Shop, M Fiberglass,Mc Coy Surfboards and Have a Good Surf.
Occupation: Surf Camp, Surf Team and Coach for Kids, Beginners and Professional Surfers
“From the top, it looked 100’ to the bottom as I free fell half way down the face.”
*Some serious advice to those that dare...
*The evolution and future of tow surfing...
“I felt like I was on the other side, like I had died.”
Towsurfer: You’re a legend from many years back and you have one of the strongest reputations in the surfing industry. What was the experience like for you as one of the young and top professional surfers in your time?
Cheyne: Traveling around the world was fantastic for the first time and experiencing all the different cultures. What I noticed is that we were all growing up the same with music and stuff. It was a dream and I was able to live a surfer’s life. I reckon my life has been about surfing the best waves in a ton of different countries, having a blast, going to new places that most people have never seen before. It was a total dream come true for me. It’s was and still is a great experience.
Who was your biggest competitor during this time?
Mark Richards and I were rivals and Shaun Thompson. Later on it was Tom Carroll and Tom Curren, and as I got older it was guys like Kelly Slater when I finished my competitive career.
How is the overall experience for you today with extreme surfing and tow surfing in mind?
For me it has opened a new door. Everybody knows I like to explore big waves on small boards. I rode huge Waimea on my 5’8” and I knew than that the possibilities were great for the future.
How much time do you spend in Hawaii each season?
It varies. If it’s pumping, I stay. If it’s flat, I come home. I have stayed as long as a year at one time and as short as 6 weeks.
What was your first ever Jaws experience like?
I was with Robbie Seeger and a bunch of friends, on a boat. I remember being very excited and thinking I had never really looked at it before. This was my first time and I just went there. First few waves, I kept telling myself “...you got to get tubed.” I kept saying that over and over. On my first wave after I took off, I felt like I was so far from the tube, and then as the wave went on, there I was in this huge barrel. I turned into this pocket at the top of the wave and got smoked, and realized that I had gotten deeper than I thought. I remember having to relax and catch my breath and strength after that wipe out because it was pretty heavy and took a lot out of me.
How many years have you been surfing North Shore?
25 years.
How did you initially train for your first tow session?
You have to imagine the worst case scenario on every situation and train for that situation.
Talk to us about the dangers in surfing and towing giant waves.
I have nearly drowned four times in my life. One time I got hit so many times I thought to myself, I am going to die here! My body went numb and limp, I was seeing stars and I felt like I was in a different place, like never before. I felt like I was on the other side, like I had died. You have to be prepared for the worst! If you don’t know what to expect, you shouldn’t be out there.
So why would you keep tow surfing?
This is a part of it and I am not afraid of death. I need to take risks and love to surf giant waves and especially on small boards.
How have you seen the sport of tow surfing change over the past couple years?
It’s growing as you and I speak right now. New ideas and designs are currently in the works every day. The way we surf these giant waves has changed a great deal. New tow spots are starting to pop up. Equipment, fins and boards are evolving and the whole tow surfing sport is growing and it’s just really exciting!
If any, what are some of the negative issues related to tow surfing that you have to contend with?
The only issue that I am concerned with and that is the oil from the skis that goes into the ocean. This is why I only tow on the very biggest swells because I am deeply concerned with pollution. One day maybe we will see an electric PWC.
 Can you explain to us the feeling of dropping in on a MASSIVE wave at Jaws? When you’re looking over the ledge, it feels like you’re standing on a huge building getting ready to jump off. When that swell starts out at 30’-40’ and your riding it, you are just waiting for that thing to hit the reef and jack to 60’-70’, sometimes 80’ as it stands straight up. It then feels like the building that you were standing on, just crumbled from under you and you are completely free falling.
What kind of breathing exercises do you do?
A lot of pool training and under water techniques over and over again. As if I were getting worked on a bad wipe out. Trying to put my self in that state of mind and stress zone. I like to run 2 hours at a time, sprinting, power bursts and working with weights in the gym. I enjoy all fun sports and yoga as well.
We are seeing a lot of older more experienced surfers and retired professionals from the past charging harder and bigger today than they ever dreamed of. Where is all this motivation and drive coming from?
I think big wave surfing allows you to combine all your years of surfing experience, allowing you to have the ability to surf very large waves.
Are there any limits to tow surfing?
Equipment is limiting. More breakthrough with equipment would be nice, and straps tend to limit your positioning and turns.
What are you’re limits?
None! All is fine, pedal to the medal......Deeper and deeper in the zone and feeling comfortable with that zone. I would really love to experience other places, Chili, South Africa, and Ireland.
So it sounds like and looks like the Jaws Tow-In World Cup was not only GIANT, but kind of hairy for most?
That day was the biggest I ever saw it and surfed it, ever! For only 3 hours it was GIANT! You could tell who the guys were that never surfed it and nevertheless they gave it a 100% effort. Lot of guys on the wrong equipment and spinning out, but they all put on a good display.
What was your approach for this event?
Just to go deep, in time for the biggest one, be safe and have fun. I wanted to catch the biggest wave and I believe I did.
 You caught what is being called the biggest wave ridden during the Jaws Tow-In World Cup. What was the experience of that wave like for you? It was a rogue set and it came out of no where. This wave lifted the horizon and you could see it was going to be just GIANT!.. I got up on my feet and said, “LET’S GO WE’RE ON IT”. Robbie is a great driver and he knew where to put me, right in that zone! I told myself to stay relaxed, kept thinking relax and at the same time thinking that this wave is bigger than the one I rode on that giant day at Log Cabins. As I was dropping into the wave, I experience a lot of bump all over it and realized there was no easy way down the face. From the top of the wave, it looked like 100’ to the bottom. As I free fell halfway down the face, I hit this huge bump and flew in the air into a bunker hole and luckily I caught my balance, but barely. Then I started my bottom turn and still had about 20’-30’ in front of me when I turned again. If I hadn’t turned right then, this wave would have smashed me. So I turned up into the pocket and snapped a turn and dropped again another 50’ down the face. This wave was at least 80’ when I started and it held strong all the way until I pulled out of it. It was so amazing and I will never forget the feeling. It definitely felt bigger than the picture looks.
Was that the biggest wave you have ever towed into?
YES!
Were you surprised that you didn’t win the XXL this year with that wave?
Very Surprised!!!Yeh, I’ve got the photos and I thought it was between Parsons and myself. Carlos wave was 9 times his height, mine was 14 times my height. Huge difference, where are the second shots showing Carlos making that wave? I am stoked for Carlos for winning it. One thing is for sure, there won’t be a wave ridden like mine again for a long time. Swells like that come once every 10-20 years.
Tell us about your tow partner Robbie Seeger.
What a great partner he is. We have had some epic times over the last 5-6 years and he has got me out of some heavy situations. We really understand one another as friends and as a team. He is goofy foot at Jaws and just does the most outrageous moves. Last year in the contest he free-fell 15’ out of the lip as he was snapping a turn in the pit. This was probably the heaviest move of the entire event. We will be going for it with the Odyssey, along with everyone else.
What current plans do you have with the Billabong Odyssey?
I am really stoked to be apart of the Billabong Odyssey. We are getting ready to go over to New Zealand where we will surf unchartered waters and that is what tow surfing is all about. New Zealand will be really rough, as a lot of the coast does not have access by land, which means you need a boat and skis.
What changes would you like to see for next years tow-in event?
They might have to explain the judging a bit clearer. They did a really good job and everyone was calling it the biggest day ever at Jaws. We were all doing prayers on the beach and given the opportunity to pull out if we wanted to. YEH RIGHT! Here we are, all the biggest surf riders in the world, who was going to pull out of contest because it was too big? No One Was! (laughing)
 Do you have any plans to surf Mavericks for the coming season?I would love to do Mavs and have been speaking to Jeff Clark , Peter Mel and Chuck Patterson. I would love to surf with the boys. Maybe this season.
Who are some of the extreme surfers that you look up to and respect?
I’d say Jose Angel, Eddie and Clyde Aikau those guys were the pioneers. Putting themselves deeper, guys like that and Peter Cole still surfing in Giant surf at 70 years of age.
What advise do you have for others considering tow surfing in the future?
First advice: Make sure you have had a huge wipeout. It all looks so easy and fun but if you don’t know what to expect, you could really put yourself in harm’s way. If you have never had a big wipeout experience, it is horrendous. You’re more in the zone, more in the power. Stay safe, get the experience first and work your way to the next level. Be aware of everyone you’re surfing with, just in case someone needs help.
Thanks Cheyne for this awesome interview!
Yeh, no worries. Before I go, I would like to add a spiritual note from surfer to surfer. Be glad inside the heart, bring laughter, goodwill, harmony and peace. A merry heart does good like medicine, and good will always over comes evil. Just a smile and a nice hello, or appreciation of a great wave, can lift you and those around you.
This is what makes our world a better place to live in.
Aloha-Have A Good Surf
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